From Toucanlady: Try opening a capsule of white oak bark, and mixing it with a small amount of olive oil and applying to the area, then push the tissue back inside. This usually works very well. Hope this helps. Regards, Linda
From Susanne: Some hens will malabsorb calcium and D3. Out of several hundred hens I have Trouble and Stacy that have had this problem. The ONLY thing that corrected it was being outside and having some type of direct access to sunlight (NOT through glass), even if it is a few hours a day, or two three times a week. If she can be outside daily that would be better initially.
Types of Calcium shots make a difference. You’d have better success with Calphosan which is calcium and phosphorus.
Your MAIN danger is a prolapsed uterus. You will see a mass of tissues protruding from the vent. In the event that this happens keep the tissues moist by either misting or under the faucet until you can get to a vet. If the tissues dry this makes it harder for the vet to fix or save the hen. In the event that you can’t immediately get to the vet you can rinse the prolapsed tissues under warm running water, blot dry, then sprinkle generously with Sugar, and leave it on 10-15 min., then rinse off. The sugar helps shrink and tighten the tissues. Use a Qtip dipped in mineral oil and reinsert the tissues into the body. This will save the hen till you can get to your vet.
From my own experiences access to sunlight is VITAL with this type of problem so that the body can naturally absorb the D3
From Carole Bryant Vitamin C with bioflavinoids (give vitamin C at the rate of 50 mg per kg bodyweight per day – less if it causes diarrhea), and the tissue salt Calc. fluor. 6x (which can be crushed and given in the water) will help strengthen weak tissue.
The tissue salt will probably need to be given over a long period – maybe a couple of months. As the condition improves, decrease the frequency of the tissue salt (i.e. daily initially, then every second day, every third day, etc.)
Someone had once asked about herbs that stimulate reproduction. I just happened across the list of herbs that a breeder once shared with me. She sells it to other breeders who hare pleased with the results. These people use it on parakeets/cockatiels/finches etc. I would not use these herbs on birds where male aggression is ever an issue. She also didn’t give me the proportions, but here’s a list of ingredients:
alfalfa, dandelion root, Echinacea root, garlic, black cohosh, butcher’s broom, dong quoi root, gotu kola, and a pinch of goldenseal. Sprinkle on the food. She says that once birds get a taste of this they become very eager for it.
From Jean Carper’s book “The Food Pharmacy”:
In recent years, much time, energy, and money have gone into trying to make pea chemicals into phrmaceutical contraceptives. “The population of Tibet has remained stationary for the last 200 years and the staple diet of the Tibetans consists of barley and peas.” This observation was made by Indian scientist Dr. S.N. Sanyal of the Calcutta Bacteriological Institute and sent him on a lifelong mission to identify the contraceptive chemical in peas and turn it into an antifertility drug to be used in India and throughout the world. This became one of the highest priorities of the Indian government. It was observed that both male and female laboratory rats which ate only peas were sterile. At 20% of the diet, litters were reduced. At 30% of the diet, they were non-existent.
The antifertility pea chemical is m-xylohydroquinone. He synthesized it, concentrated it in capsules, and gave it to women; their pregnancy rate went down by 50-60%. When men took the antifertility pea capsule, their sperm count dropped by half. Somehow pea compounds meddled with the reproductive hormones progesterone and estrogen.
However, the pea chemicals never gained a place as a contraceptive because their performance could not match that of the ‘pill’.
Could it affect birds similarly? It’s possible. Got any chronic egg-layers you want to stop? Feed peas. This may create a problem of excess protein in the diet, though.
Chronic Egg Laying
Dr. McCluggage has a supplement he sent me, he calls it TKGin Combo, it is Chinese Medicine. It definitely turns off the egg laying. My budgie was producing eggs too large (happened twice) & becoming egg-bound. I had my budgie on it for 7 or 8 months, but have just taken her off because I suspect an ovarian cyst/tumor (or maybe kidney), because of the symptom of one leg going partially lame. Also, her cere turned almost white & on top of that I just had a gut feeling to discontinue it.
She’s been off it for a few weeks & is, as of today, offering to mate with me, again. Soooo… I am just going with Dr. McCluggage’s other suggestion: unsettle the bird. Move her to a different room in the house, change her cage around, etc. You don’t want to scare her, but you want to unsettle her.
I also had to remove all mirrors and metal (including tiny cage clips) from her cage cuz if she can see even part of herself in a mirror, she gets going on the mating thing.
Also, since you have soft-shelled eggs, supplement calcium in an easily digestible form. I just started using Calciboost from Malcolm’s company, it can be used in the water or on soft food. Wouldn’t egg shells work?
Dr. McCluggage is very much into educating other vets, so there’s a possibility that if your vet called him, he might share with her what all of the ingredients are or at least sell her some or allow her to order it for you without you having to consult him. I think it was around $10 & about 3 oz or so, since I give 2 drops twice daily to a 60 gram bird – it lasts a very long time.
His book mentions giving Sepia (homeopathic) to stop egg laying. Plus other remedies for being egg-bound, etc.
His phone # is 303-702-1985, he’s in Longmont, Colorado. If you get an answering machine, leave a message – they WILL call you back, but it may be a couple days. Leanne